Vacation in Quangxi pt.1

It’s been over two weeks since I took a great vacation in
southern China and time, as always, slowly steals the essence of the
experience from me. I’m now bogged down in the “busy season” of
summer course and the World Cup, but I must try to write out some
impressions of the trip.
It had a rough start: arriving at the train station, I realized
they had knocked down the clocktower, as much of China is a perpetual
construction site. And my train to Beijing left over 2.5 hours late.
But the good news was, after buying a cheaper “general seating” seat,
I did actually have a place to sit on the train- not always the case.
About 5 hours later I was in Beijing, a city I continue to love. I
made my way to Sanlitun where I usually stay, got a room and rented a
bike. With each trip I do more exploration, and had guessed a bike
ride was doable to the hutong area east of Houhai I wanted to further
explore. I’d found a bunch of great toy stores here during my trip in
early March. The bike ride only took about 15 minutes and despite
Beijing sometimes insane traffic, it is a bike friendly town, like
most anywhere I have seen in China. I hit some toy stores but didn’t
go to crazy, as it was the beginning of the trip and I knew I’d be
coming back through at the end. I also might have actually played out
collecting these silly little figures, at least for now. Where does
that “collection” thing come from? Where ever, there is certainly
more than bit of neurosis involved…

I found a place called Gathering Bar and though the owner had no
English and my Chinese is limited, we sort of chatted for a while. He
turned me on to place I could get grapefruit juice to go with the
vodka I can know get cheaply in Liaocheng thanks to a complete liquor
store that recently opened, with a private bar upstairs (more on this
later). I headed back toward the hostel, picked up seasons 1 + 2 of
Breaking Bad and ate a free hotpot dinner in the hostel, chatting with
some folks including a couple with a small kid trying to cycle across
Europe and Asia. Iran had proven too difficult visa wise, so after
making it to Turkey from the UK, they had come to China and were
trying to figure some way to go East to West, at least log more miles
on the other side of the obstacle. I went to bed early as I had an
early flight.

There was a light drizzle as I headed out, but I was pleased to figure
out the airport shuttle train after a short walk. So I can now get
from plane to room for 25 RMB when in China, avoiding the costly cab
ride one often has to bear when landing. On the train I chatted with
cute Dutch girl who was at the end of her trip to China. I got off at
the wrong terminal in the airport and had to wait a bit for the next
train. “Alone” in this huge terminal, I was tempted to take some
pics, but thought better of it, noticing the cameras and whomever
might be watching me. Nothing would have come of it of course, but I
figured I’d avoid the hassle. My plane took off an hour late, but the
flight was only two hours, and I was in humid, mountainous Guilin!
My hotel there had arranged a driver to pick me up, and I found my
name among the name cards of the waiting drivers. Grateful the guy
had stuck around despite my late arrival, he got a rare tip. I
instantly loved Guilin just as I thought I would. Limestone, ‘karst’,
mountains litter the terrain like huge stalagmites. The elements
easily carve them (as well as hollow them from within) and the
humidity keeps vegetation all over them. It’s hard to tell from
pictures before you arrive how many mountains there are, but
thankfully they go on in all directions. The growing city is built
all around them. The driver took me to the Riverside Inn, a place I
found online and was perfect. Cheap, clean, and staffed by several
cute girls in their 20’s. Ah, China! So Shefen, Peggy, Yo yo and the
others became my go to advice board for events around town and what to
do down river.

Dropping my stuff in the room, I went out to explore and quickly
found Elephant Trunk Hill, which is a short, steep climb and a view.
Actually, at first I misunderstood the 40 RMB fee, thinking it was
just to get to a garden area by the river, but it actually entails the
entire park and hill, which was not laid out in an obvious fashion
from the outside. But once inside I was pleased. True it was muggy,
and I sweated almost continuous for my first week of the trip. But
the rooms had AC and I was comfortable when I wanted to be. I had a
nap and Shefen told me about a place for dinner. I told them I’d be
staying another evening before heading South. Most foreign tourist
paid 390 for a boatride all the way to Yangshuo with lunch, but the
girls convinced me to take a local bus for 15 to Yangdi, then ride a
private “bamboo” boat down only the prettiest parts of the river to
Xinping for 150.

The next day I went to Reed Flute Cave which was technicolor lit and
screamed out for the use of hallucinogens. It was also mostly paved
through out, so older Chinese tourists found it easy to get around.
The Chinese love to light things and otherwise “artifically enhance”
to a point where the surreal is often obtained. Not so great for true
spelunkers, but it suited me just fine. That evening I took Shefen to
dinner at the place she’d told me about but had never actually been
to. Later I went to stroll the large night market downtown with
Jennifer, an American who lived in Ko Samui, Thailand for the last
several years. Jennifer is a health consultant and works in some
semi- New Age fields that might have turned me off were she not in
essence a Philly, cynical girl. She had a way of talking about
crystal and such that might have taken some of the bullshit factor out
of it. I’m involved in lifestyle choices that turn her off as well,
but nevertheless we got along OK and I met up with her several more
times during my trip. There was a flier at the hostel for one in
Yangshuo where she decided she would stay and I said I’d look for her
in a few days.
In some ways, Guilin is just another Chinese city, but the rivers
and mountains generated enough romance for me that I’m considering
signing my next teaching contract down there. As I said, the
mountains are a region, and while it is touristy and growing (both
foreigners and a huge emerging Chinese middle class, taking vacations
for the first time) and I would happily go anywhere, it seems my best
shot might be there in the big city, though it’s not the capital of
the province.

The next afternoon, Shefen walked me to the bus station, and I
caught the local which would take me to the road that would turn off
to Yangdi. On the way out of town the police pulled the bus over and
the driver had to talk with them about something for about 15 minutes
and we rolled on. If he paid a fine or bribe I didn’t see. It was
all rather unclear what was going on. Finally we set off again.
Sooner than I expected the bus was stopping and telling me we were at
Yangdi road, just a T intersection with some fruit and water vendors,
people waiting for other buses and traffic wizzing by on the dusty two
lane. As soon as I got off, a woman approached me, but I assured her
I already had a contact I was waiting on. I sent a text to Peggy
saying I was at this point and ready to meet the “boatman” who I had
met earlier back in Guilin. As another bus came by and turned down
the road to Yangdi, the woman came again and chattered I should get
on. When I attempted to protest, she pulled out her cell and showed me
in her contact list the number for the boatman. So the boatman wasn’t
here, but she was telling me to get on this packed standing room only
bus. It was going in the right direction. So I did. The ride was
only about 20 minutes, and the setting was now decidedly rural: cattle
in the road, mudslides on the corners the huge bus would navigate
around. At the end of the road, there were a bunch more vendors
milling around, myself the only foreigner in sight. I bought some
water and was approached by a guy who wasn’t the boatman, but had the
number in his cell and was willing to take my receipt for the ride, so
I got on his boat, which wasn’t actually bamboo, but PVC pipes painted
brown, which was fine, considering I had my camera and pack full of
everything with me and didn’t plan on going into the river just then.
We shoved off and I relaxed completely for the first time that day as
the scenery unfolded. Everything I wanted it to be and more despite
the drizzle. I’d brought my kite along and though there wasn’t truly
enough wind to get it going, the boatman put on the small motor to
give me enough velocity to go aloft for a few photos. I also had a
total 21st century moment as I received 2 cell phone calls out there
in the middle of nowhere on the river. One from a guy back in
Liaocheng looking for this certain store and another from Shefen
calling from Guilin to check up on me. All was bliss.
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